Kerlingarfjöll: The Ultimate Guide to Iceland's Geothermal Paradise

Kerlingarfjöll is a young mountain range in the Highlands of Iceland whose form resembles a bowl. Inside is a geothermal landscape wonderland with steaming vents and hot springs, surrounded by snow-capped summits and rhyolite slopes. Once a popular ski resort, the remote Kerlingarfjöll mountain resort has become a paradise for those seeking to experience Iceland’s remote beauty. This protected nature reserve is a year-round destination, with Northern Lights seekers arriving in winter and hiking trails buzzing with swarms of summertime tourists.

Kerlingarfjöll nestles between Langjökull and Hofsjökull glaciers in the heart of the island's interior. Surrounded by glacier streams and smaller landmarks, like Gýgjarfoss waterfall, the mountain offers views of the shifting Icelandic Highland landscape. Part of its charm lies in its secluded nature, as barely any infrastructure links it to the rest of the island. Access is limited to two roads, F35 and F347, which are only open to 4x4 vehicles in summer. In winter, they’re passable only with a specially equipped Super Jeep. Both roads connect to Route 1, Iceland’s famous Ring Road. So, how do you get to Kerlingarfjöll? You have three options:

By car: From Reykjavík, a self-drive via roads F35 and F347 is possible from June to September. Due to gravel surfaces and rugged F35 Iceland road conditions, a 4WD is essential. Fuel up beforehand—no gas stations are available in the Highlands.

By guided tours: Professional-led excursions are available only in summer, while private tours run year-round. Our hiking tour to Kerlingarfjöll includes an in-depth exploration of the range with a guide explaining the area's geological history and pointing out key sights.

By bus: Summer bus services to the highlands are limited, and Kerlingarfjöll is not connected by public transport. However, private companies do operate routes to and from this mountain range. An organized bus trip from Reykjavík or Gullfoss can be arranged, but the full hiking price applies.

Did you know that Kerlingarfjöll is named after a mythical creature that turned to stone when struck by sunlight? While such legends live on in folklore, the landscape itself has magical undertones. This geothermal wonder has captivated explorers for centuries with its steaming hot springs, volcanic formations, and ever-changing scenery. Around every corner, a breathtaking sight awaits.

Nicknamed the “Valley of the Hot Springs,” Hveradalir is one of Iceland’s largest geothermal areas, surrounded by the mountains of Kerlingarfjöll. An 11.3 km (7 mi) hiking loop winds through a stunning display of Icelandic geothermal activity—bubbling mud pools, steaming vents, and mineral-rich slopes. The vivid colors rival those of Landmannalaugar in the Fjallabak Nature Reserve.

While the geothermal spots at Hveradalir are too hot for bathing, two hot springs in Kerlingarfjöll’s lower valley are perfect for swimming. One is a modern bath with built-in pools and facilities. The other is a free natural pool about 1.5 km (0.9 mi) away. It is reached by a hike along the river, past red slopes and mossy ground, ending at a quiet, secluded spot.

On the way to the valley and hot springs, you’ll encounter several notable landmarks. All are just a short walk from the mountain range’s parking areas.

Horseshoe Bend: A striking riverbend in the Ásgarður Valley that resembles Arizona’s famous Horseshoe Bend. The Icelandic version features rugged cliffs, making it a scenic stop on the way to Hveradalir.

Gýgjarfoss Waterfall: A 5-meter (16-foot) cascade fed by the Jökulfall glacier river. It’s impossible to miss as it sits along F347, the main route to Kerlingarfjöll.

The Highland Base: A year-round resort near Kerlingarfjöll with hiking trails leading to the hot springs valley. It offers a hotel, restaurant, parking, and countless adventure opportunities—an ideal base for explorers.

Jokulfall Gorge: A glacier-carved canyon shaped by a river from Hofsjökull. The trail meanders past small lakes and valleys, eventually leading to a hidden waterfall.

The natural beauty of the island interior reveals itself in summer, ready to be explored on foot. Hiking through the Icelandic landscapes is already rewarding, but the Highlands add to the experience with views of shifting landscapes and untouched geological wonders. Kerlingarfjöll is a prime example, as its rugged mountain edges combine with hot springs to create a fully explorable painting with a network of scenic trails.

The diverse terrain makes the Kerlingarfjöll hike ideal for hikers of all skill levels. Beginners can take a short walk through the hot spring valley, while those seeking a moderate challenge can explore trails circling the entire range. For a more demanding adventure, Kerlingarfjöll hiking can also be part of a multi-day trek through the Highlands.

1. Hveradalir Geothermal Area Hike

Distance: 7.24 km (4.5 mi)

Time: 3 to 4 hours

Difficulty: Easy to moderate

The Hveradalir route is one of the most iconic Icelandic geothermal hikes, marked by well-maintained paths and trail posts. The main trail from the parking lot leads into the valley before splitting into three separate routes, each offering a unique geothermal hiking experience filled with steaming hot springs, bubbling mud pools, and venting fissures.

2. Kerlingarfjöll Hot Spring Hike

Distance: 4 km (2.5 mi)

Time: 3 to 4 hours

Difficulty: Easy

Starting from the Highland Base parking lot, this trail follows the lush green banks of the Ásgarður River. One of the most leisurely hikes in the area, it features minimal elevation changes, making it accessible to most hikers. The reward? A warm hot spring nestled beside the calm river—perfect for a refreshing dip before returning to the resort.

3. Snækollur Hike

Distance: 6 km (3.78 mi)

Time: 3 to 4 hours

Difficulty: Challenging

Prepare for a steep ascent from the parking lot at the edge of Ásgarður, including slippery, rugged paths and snow patches. Sparsely placed trail posts guide hikers up to the Snaekollur summit, the highest peak in the Kerlingarfjöll range at nearly 1,524 m (5,000 ft). You'll be rewarded at the top with a stunning panoramic view of the mountain bowl and the vast Highland interior beyond.

4. Highland Base to Hveradalir Hike

Distance: 11.5 km (7.14 mi)

Time: 4 hours

Difficulty: Easy

You don’t need a car to reach Hveradalir—it's accessible on foot via the Ásgarður Valley, which connects it to the Highland Base. A red sign marks the starting point, with wooden trail posts guiding the way, though they become sparse further along the path. Unless recently covered by snow, this diverse and well-trodden path should be easy to follow.

5. Ögmundur, Röðull and Höttur Hike

Distance: 15.8 km (9.78 mi)

Time: 7 hours

Difficulty: Demanding

Three summits in one, this challenging trek is a true endurance test. Starting from the parking lot at the end of F347, you’ll ascend Ögmundur mountain first, followed by Röðull, and finally Höttur. These snow-capped peaks are linked by steep climbs, descents, and trails winding through volcanic landscapes.

6. Hringbrautin Circuit

Distance: 47 km (29.26 mi)

Time: 2 to 3 days

Difficulty: Moderate to challenging

This multi-day loop around the mountain range challenges hikers with shallow river crossings and steep climbs. Travelers will be presented with a diverse palette of landscapes, from towering summits and flat plateaus to winding rivers and rugged slopes. The trail's path is dotted with mountain huts where people can spend the night.

7. Multi-Day Highland Treks and Hikes

Difficulty: For advanced and experienced hikers

Trekkers can include this geological landmark as one of many stops on their journey through the Icelandic Highlands. As a milestone on the south-north connecting F35 road, trekking or hiking tours going through the interior will likely stop here to spend the night or discover the wonders hiding beyond the colorful ridges.

At 700 m (2297 ft) above sea level, Kerlingarfjöll's weather is harsher than that of lower-altitude areas. Summer, from June to September, brings longer days and milder temperatures, reaching highs of 14°C (57°F), making it Iceland’s hiking season, among other mid-year activities. Winter, on the other hand, is cold and rugged, with temperatures dropping as low as -2°C (28°F). Though access requires a Super Jeep, the snow-covered slopes and dark winter skies create the perfect setting for late-year experiences, like skiing, snowmobiling, and Northern Lights hunting—activities that continue well into the off-season.

Summer (June–September): With improved weather in June, hiking trails around the mountains come alive, offering stunning views of lush greenery and geothermal formations. When September comes to Iceland, temperatures drop and the first snow begins to fall, starting the seasonal transition to winter.

Winter (October–May): Kerlingarfjöll transforms into a snow-covered paradise for winter sports enthusiasts, ideal for skiing and hot spring hikes. On clear nights, the remote location becomes a prime spot for witnessing the Northern Lights.

Weather and accessibility considerations: Summer is the best time to visit Iceland—not just in general, but especially the Kerlingarfjoll mountains. During this season, F-roads are open, and trails are free of snow, making the area much more accessible. In contrast, harsh winter conditions and snow blocking the roads require a Super Jeep for access to the region.

No matter the season, Kerlingarfjöll is filled with endless opportunities for adventure. With the Highland Base being a refuge all year round, visitors can explore new activities and discover hidden gems in the enclosed range. Here are some of the more popular experiences that people try out in this range:

Mountain biking - Ride through dramatic landscapes where steaming geothermal vents and rolling terrain create a one-of-a-kind backdrop. Bike rentals are available at Highland Base.

Bird watching - Spot unique bird species like ptarmigans, which change from brown to snow-white in winter, and migratory birds visiting the slopes until summer’s end.

Trail running - Test your endurance by completing the marked trails as fast as possible. For the ultimate test, take part in the Kerlingarfjöll Ultra, hosted by Highland Base.

Geothermal photography - Capture the otherworldly beauty of bubbling hot springs, steaming vents, and vibrant mineral deposits. Changing light and weather conditions make every shot unique.

Exploring highland landscapes - Immerse yourself in the remote beauty of Kerlingarfjöll’s hidden valleys, towering slopes, and surreal geothermal formations.

Relaxing in the Hot Springs - After a long day of adventuring, soak in naturally heated geothermal waters. For the best experience, visit in the evening when the nights are slightly illuminated by the sun near the horizon.

Kerlingarföll skiing - Glide through untouched backcountry slopes with breathtaking Highland views in front of you. Ski equipment is not available for rent at Highland Base, so bring your own.

Snowmobiling - Race across vast snow-covered landscapes and ascend Fannborg Mountain, combining adrenaline-pumping action with stunning geothermal scenery.

Northern Lights viewing - Witness the mesmerizing dance of the Aurora Borealis. Far from bright city lights, Kerlingarfjöll is one of the best spots for stargazing and Northern Lights photography.

Snowshoeing - Trek through pristine, snow-covered slopes with specialized snowshoes, leaving behind wide tracks as you explore the untouched winter wilderness.

Relaxing in the Hot Springs - Escape the winter chill with a soak in Iceland’s naturally heated hot springs, surrounded by snow-capped peaks. The Highland Base hot spring is the perfect way to start or end your journey.

Kerlingarfjöll accommodations are limited to the Highland Base Hotel lodging near the entrance to Ásgarður Valley. The site has multiple buildings, including a hotel, huts, and a restaurant. It also manages the baths and six designated camping zones.

Highland base at Kerlingarfjöll: Formerly known as Kerlingarfjoll Mountain Resort, visitors can choose from several options. Lodges are spacious and luxurious, featuring large windows for panoramic views and extra amenities. The hotel is a more traditional, budget-friendly, hostel-style stay with compact rooms. Lastly, rustic huts accommodate up to 15 people, ideal for larger groups.

Kerlingarfjöll campsite: Camping in Iceland and around Kerlingarfjöll is possible only in summer from June to September. The designated campsite is situated between the huts and the river. It’s divided into two parts: Zones A to E are meant for tents, while Zone F is reserved for campers, trailers, and vehicles with rooftop tents. Reservations can be made through parka.is, and visitors who require electricity can pay an additional fee to use one of the six electric hookups available in zones A and F.

Alternative stay options nearby: With no other hotel in the area, Icelandic backpackers can opt for mountain huts scattered across the Highlands. The Ferðafélag Íslands (Iceland Touring Association) operates three huts near Langjökull Glacier—Þjófadalir, Þverbrekknamúli, and Hvítárnes—which give a more off-the-grid and rugged overnight experience.

On-site restaurant and services: The hotel’s restaurant seats up to 80 guests and serves a menu that changes with the seasons, but both feature traditional Icelandic dishes. Campers and hostel guests have access to a service house, which includes showers, washrooms, a kitchen, and outdoor grill facilities. While hotel/hostel guests have free access to the geothermal baths, those staying in huts or at the campsite must pay an additional fee for admission.

Unpredictable weather and rough road conditions in the Icelandic Highlands make proper preparation for hiking in Iceland essential—even for experienced trekkers. The first step is understanding the climate. Iceland’s weather can shift rapidly from sunshine to rain or snow within minutes. Check the Icelandic Met Office for conditions in Hveravellir, the nearest weather station to Kerlingarfjöll, to stay updated. 

Icelandic hiking gear is incomplete without proper footwear, trekking poles, and navigational tools like a GPS, compass, and map. Your trip's packing list for Kerlingarfjöll should also include water and high-energy snacks to enjoy while walking or resting. A first aid kit and emergency blanket are nice safeguards, along with informing relatives or friends where you are going. 

Waterproof clothing: Regardless of the forecast, layering is key: wear a base, mid, and outer layers. Whether visiting in summer or winter, waterproof gear is essential. A durable rain jacket, waterproof pants, and well-broken-in hiking boots will keep you comfortable during weather events.

Responsible travel and leave no trace principles: The Highlands is a fragile ecosystem, requiring visitors to follow responsible travel in Iceland principles: enjoy nature, but don’t leave anything behind. Carry out all waste, respect the environment, and stick to marked trails to protect wildlife and natural landmarks. Kerlingarfjöll is a protected area, so extra care is needed to preserve its beauty.

Websites and resources for live updates on F35 & F347: Before heading out, view the Icelandic Road and Coastal Administration website for live updates on road conditions for F35 and F347. Depending on the weather, these roads can be impassable, so planning ahead is crucial.

Hveravellir – A stunning geothermal area located between the Langjökull ice field and the Hofsjökull glaciers. Known for its steaming hot springs, lava fields, and vibrant mineral deposits, visitors can explore the landscape by following marked hiking trails.

Hvítárvatn – One of the largest and most scenic lakes in Iceland, located at the base of Langjökull. This glacial lake is the source of Hvítá, a strikingly milky blue river that winds through the island’s dramatic landscapes.

Hofsjökull Glacier – A pristine ice cap covering an active volcano in central Iceland. One of the country’s most challenging glaciers to explore, Hofsjökull features a rugged and remote landscape that is difficult to access.

Kjölur/Kjalvegur (F35 Road) – A road 168 km (104 mi) long connecting Iceland’s north and south coasts, cutting through the heart of the Highlands. Open only in summer, the Kjölur route can be explored with a 4x4 or on foot.

Þjórsárver – A wetland and nature reserve near Hofsjökull Glacier. It’s a significant spot for birdwatching, as many pink-footed geese nestle here, with locals believing that even more species rely on the wonder for their survival.

Sprengisandur – A vast Highland plateau between the Vatnajökull and Hofsjökull glaciers. Historically, it served as an important travel route from the 10th to 12th centuries, linking northern and southern Iceland.

Landmannalaugar – A geothermal mountain region within the Fjallabak Nature Reserve, known for its colorful rhyolite hills and bubbling hot springs. It also marks the starting point of the legendary Laugavegur hiking trail.

Thorsmork – A lush, glacier-carved valley located between Mýrdalsjökull, Eyjafjallajökull, and Tindfjallajökull. Hikers come here in the summer to enjoy the views of the lush landscape as the terrain wraps itself in a green coat of moss.

Gullfoss Waterfall – One of the Golden Circle’s three attractions, found south of the Kerlingarfjöll mountain range. Fed by the Hvítá River, this two-tiered cascade plunges dramatically into a deep canyon, creating a powerful and awe-inspiring spectacle.

Dettifoss Waterfall – Reputably Europe’s most powerful waterfall, with an average water flow of 193 cubic meters per second (6,820 cubic feet per second) and a 100 m (330 ft) fall. Located in Vatnajökull National Park, it’s a highlight of Northern Iceland and the Diamond Circle.