Skarðsvík Beach: The Golden Sand Cove on Snæfellsnes

Skarðsvík Beach is a small golden sand cove near the western tip of the Snæfellsnes Peninsula, inside Snæfellsjökull National Park. The pale sand, made of crushed seashells, stands out against the black lava around it.

Black lava cliffs surround the cove, where the water can look turquoise on sunny days. You can see the beach from the parking area, and a short walk leads down to the sand. Stop briefly during your peninsula drive to examine shell fragments mixed with basalt grains or enjoy the view from a picnic table.

Bring binoculars if you’re continuing past the beach. Seals and whales are sometimes seen off this coast, and a higher viewpoint improves your chances.

Skarðsvík Beach is around a 3-hour drive from Reykjavík, near the western tip of Snæfellsnes. The nearest town, Hellissandur, is 6.7 km (4.2 mi) away, and the drive from Keflavík International Airport takes close to 4 hours. No public bus stops at the beach. Strætó’s route 82 serves Hellissandur only on certain days of the week, so a car is the practical way to get here.

Route 574 (Útnesvegur) follows the coast around Snæfellsjökull glacier, linking the north and south sides of the Snæfellsnes Peninsula, so you can arrive from either direction. Coming from the north, drive west through Ólafsvík and Hellissandur. Approaching from the south, follow the coast from Arnarstapi past Saxhóll Crater. Either way, turn west onto Route 579 (Öndverðarnesvegur) and follow it to the small parking area above the beach. Two short wooden staircases and a rocky path then lead down to the sand. The parking area’s GPS coordinates are 64.8809, -23.9856.

Route 579 is narrow and single-track in places: slow down and leave room for oncoming cars. The road receives no winter service, so snow or ice can make it impassable. In winter, look up current road conditions before you set off.

Skarðsvík’s golden sand comes from broken seashells. Waves grind the fragments into small grains that gather in a pale strip between the dark lava cliffs. Shell sand like this often passes through the stomachs of fish such as haddock and wolffish before the surf washes it ashore. Snæfellsjökull National Park asks visitors to leave sand, shells, and stones where they find them.

For comparison, Iceland’s black beaches are made from volcanic rock worn down into sand. At Skarðsvík, basalt grains mix with the shell fragments, giving the beach its golden appearance from a distance.

Expect a softer shade than the bright yellow seen in some photographs. In flat light, the sand can look beige, dotted with basalt grains and darker patches where it’s wet. Even when the colors are muted, the shoreline stands out against the lava.

A Viking Age grave was found at Skarðsvík in 1962, when the road was built. The grave held the skeleton of a young man, buried with a sword, a spearhead, a shield boss, a knife, iron fragments, and a bone pin. The burial dates to the 10th century. The skeleton and grave goods are now kept at the National Museum of Iceland.

Bones and teeth suggested different ages. Skeletal development pointed to a child of 10 to 12, while the teeth belonged to an adult of around 19 to 21. Later research proposed that a hormonal condition could explain the delayed bone development. At an estimated 177 cm (5 ft 10 in), this person was taller than average for the period.

Do not swim at Skarðsvík. Take photographs from the upper beach, well back from the water's edge, and keep children close by at all times. Bear in mind that waves can surge far up the shore and drag you into the water. Never turn your back on the sea and don't get any closer when the water looks calm.

Plan your visit for low tide, when more of the beach is exposed. SafeTravel’s sneaker-wave advice, written for Reynisfjara, applies here too: stay well back from the water and never turn your back on the sea.

Past Skarðsvík, the road branches toward Öndverðarnes lighthouse (Öndverðarnesviti) and Svörtuloft lighthouse. Both routes are gravel, with narrow bends, loose stones, and uneven stretches through the lava fields. The lighthouses are about 10 minutes apart by car. Set aside roughly 1 to 2 hours for the beach and both stops.

Öndverðarnes has a small lighthouse and remains of a former fishing settlement. An old stone well called Fálki, once the settlement’s only water source, is still here. Farther south, the orange Svörtuloft lighthouse stands at Skálasnagi above the sea cliffs. Look for the natural rock arch nearby and seabirds on the ledges below.

Summer usually brings the most comfortable driving conditions for reaching Skarðsvík. For photographs, try early afternoon, when the sun is highest in the sky. This end of the peninsula can feel chilly and exposed, so bring a windproof jacket on warm days too. Use the weather forecast to plan around strong gusts or heavy rain. In winter, shorter daylight hours limit the time available for your visit.